As many of the days in Cancun were my favourite, one of the best highlights was taking a day trip to playa del carmen. We headed there in the early afternoon and upon arrival at the beach Luis went to get some beers. When he came back, he had a home made esky from cardboard boxes, a bag of ice, two six packs and a surprise michelada mix for me. We drank all afternoon, swam, laughed, spoke in our broken Spanglish and watched the sunset before dinner and a bus back to Cancun. We both fell asleep and had the driver waking us at the station once the bus was empty. The following night would end up being our last in Cancun. I was starting to get a little cabin fever and booked my next leg to Tulum which is roughly two hours south. The last night in the hostel we had a pool party and took plenty of snaps and videos which truly captured the energy of the evening.
It was the 9th of September Luis joined me for the trip to Tulum with an onward journey home to Chile in sight. We checked in at Chill In, which would become our home for the next 17 nights. I can't believe how that time has flown. Our first night was ladies night at a local bar and we drunk and danced until the early hours of the morning. That following day for me was hell with an epic hangover in the most incredible heat. That night we went to the beach with the hostel crew, 13 of us all crammed into a van with the plan to watch turtles lay eggs and release hatchlings to the sea. Unfortunately most people had such a big day that soon as we set up our sheets on the beach, and our heads hit the sand we all fell asleep with only a couple waking for the experience. The Stars were the most incredible I had seen, with the Milky Way so clear. I saw a shooting star, made a wish and that's all until I remember until waking up at sunrise for a dip, before we all headed back to the hostel.
The following day we headed to the Tulum ruins in the scorching heat of the day. The location was gorgeous but due to the heat, we briskly took photos and shuffled out in under 45 minutes. That afternoon my pal started to fall ill. Aches and pains, a headache, I thought perhaps a hangover until it rapidly progressed into a full blown fever. It lasted for some 3/4 days where the decline in health and wellbeing was overwhelming to see. I played doctor until a few days in when he was able to get about and eat again, we treated ourselves to a big salad for lunch. We had been disinfecting lettuce while in Cancun but on this day, we totally dropped the ball. We soaked it in filtered water, but by no means was that enough. That evening I spent rushing from bed to the bathroom at least two dozen times. The following day I was exhausted and slept with a fear to move anywhere other then my bed. The roles were soon reversed with me now playing patient. I was waited on hand and foot, even spoon fed jelly before being dragged from bed to be taken to the hospital. We negotiated to me just being taken to the doctor where it was a no brainer for him that I had a bacterial infection from the lettuce. Three types of antibiotics and as soon as I took the first round, all bodily movements stopped, however I had to put up with the most incredible cramps and pains for the next five days. Whilst at the doctor, Luis had a referral for blood tests which came back the dengue fever. We were then known as "dengue man and bacteria girl" at the hostel for the rest of our stay. This is what had our stay there extended and I guess why it didn't feel like it was really 17 days. Talking with mum she said how horrible it must be to be so sick and so far from home. However the thought had not even crossed my mind. I had five star treatment, it was so lucky that each of us experienced our illness while with each other. The only thing which could have made it any better was an air conditioned room.
In no time at all, we had become part of the Chill in family. The hostel was family run and we had become honorary family members. We would never wake in time for breakfast so Teresa would secretly stash our plates of food in the microwave for when we did wake. It was such a homely place. Suzanna the three month old kitten stole our hearts and we were forever laughing at her running about the place, falling asleep on the first lap she could find. We managed to fit in a few trips out of the hostel in our window of good health. Bike rides to the beach, two cenotes, another trip to Playa Del Carmen for Micheladas, a couple of trips to the gorgeous Akumal bay beach, and I had a day of diving. After 16 months, my welcome back into the underwater world was a good one. The Pit, Dos Ojos and Carwash were the three cenotes we dived. Carwash was by far the most incredible with a layer of mud and sediment a couple of metres above the floor gave it a mystical fairytale feel, with colours of green and blue sitting above crystal clear water. The photos speak for themselves.
CARWASH CENOTE - Tulum
Our daily ritual continued on from Cancun with trips to the supermarket and hours spent cooking in the kitchen. My own personal chef was beyond incredible, and I loved being the assistant, though I often felt like I was more of a drag then a help in the way of a professional. Right up until our last day, where we didn't even spend the day at the beach as planned, but spent hours in the kitchen making Empanadas. In the evening Tulum cried heavily for us with heavy rain which did not let up. After a few beers and tequilas we went out to a local bar where we had "just one beer" five times... We danced and danced and danced before I put on the brakes at 3am knowing we had to be out of the hostel on the way to the airport in a couple hours. In true form we cooked up a storm of ham and cheese croissants on the stove before passing out.
ROADTRIP TO AKUMAL
A couple of hours later it was near impossible for either of us to wake, but we had no other option. Still half cut we finished packing and began our journey to Cancun airport. It was still raining and we weren't feeling top notch. Late, but still in time, I checked into my flight to Havana, Cuba. Feeling a bit regretful about the trip, it was to late to change my mind. I could always come back. After a drawn out goodbye and a blinking back of tears, we parted ways. One to Cuba, one to Chile. Until we meet again...
A one hour flight to Havana gave me no time to sleep. At the airport I didn't even have time to blink before "Charlie" (Carlos) a taxi driver whisked me up in his old blue car and had me on my way to my "hostel". At the traffic lights he bought us a paper of peanuts which we enjoyed while listening to the Beatles which he blasted from his car. At the "hostel" the landlord spoke no English. I was meant to be meeting two girls I met in Tulum that arrived the day before. I was told they weren't there. I started to freak out. They were the reason I came and I hadn't even considered being a solo traveller in Cuba. For a couple of hours I was completely distressed. I had no other option but to book a night. I was taken to an apartment room around the corner into a room with four beds and I was the only check in. My world was turned upside down and all I could think of was getting on a flight back to Mexico. Once in the room I ugly cried for a good few minutes before telling myself to pulling it together. Go to sleep at 5pm and face the day tomorrow. Soon following, someone came into the apartment. I blurted "do you speak English??!!" And to my relief he did. Leonardo from Brazil was also travelling alone and was also somewhat distressed about his arrival and short time in Cuba. We latched onto each other as I told him the situation of the girls not being here and having yet another cry. I had a little nap to sleep of the emotions; and when I woke around 8pm we went for a walk to get some dinner (though I had absolutely no appetite).
Walking the streets in darkness, the poverty and squaller was confronting. He bought me a beer as I had no local money and told me to be happy. I know that these moments happen when you travel. You are put in an uncomfortable situation and its fight or flight, and my instinct is flight. A feeling of complete loss. I felt so empty and alien in this country. It was very culturally shocking and to travel here solo was appearing to be madness, let alone not being able to speak Spanish. You have the feeling of complete loss, but you know that it always turns around; however keeping that light of hope in such a distressing time is difficult. It was late and we walked back where i began writing this blog before falling asleep. The following morning I woke to it pouring rain outside. I remembered my situation, which was exaggerated by saying goodbye to best friend the day before and I brushed away more tears. It was painful to pull myself from the featel position which I laid, however I had a plan to find wifi (incredibly difficult, expensive and slow) and book a flight back to Mexico in a couple of days. I gave myself a pep talk when I realised the torture I was putting myself through in my thoughts and told myself to think nothing but positives about being here. We walked via the Revoltutionary square which was a good geez with gorgeous old cars in the streets. I found where the post office was which would be open the following day for postcard duty to home, a cash exchange so I could finally have some local cash (yes I had only just arrived but I can be quite hard on myself) and we walked around Havana for hours. I was feeling just remotely more comfortable. We ate a reasonable lunch of chicken and rice for 2CUC ( approx $3.50 Aud) and I had finally come to understand the two currencies which are used (which was also one of the very daunting things I was freaking out about the day before - everything was just to difficult). We took a couple snaps in an old car without charge and I bought a wifi card on the street for 3CUC to contact home and arrange for my flight change. I felt like in 24 hours I was done. I'd seen the cars, walked the streets and was ready to head home. There were no other travellers, no hostel environment, people only spoke Spanish and interactions were difficult. It's hard to encapsulate the experience unless you have seen Havana yourself. Everything is rundown, poverty is everywhere, people pissing and pooing in the streets. It was incredibly confronting. Once I send a postcard and buy a cigar, I felt like my experience was complete and I had no other reason to struggle around on my own for a further three weeks. I was ready to hit Central America. It took thirty minutes to try to connect to the wifi where in another forty minutes I was only able to send and receive a couple of messages. I asked for a flight within a couple of days, I didn't care for the details, just book and I'll check the wifi in the evening to get them and go.
When I got back to the apartment a letter was left for me with the girls!! They were here and staying seven floors above me in the apartment. I could not believe it. I don't even have the energy to explain the fiasco with with landlord and giving us both wrong information. The girls told them the day before I would come, name time everything. When I Arrived I gave the same. But no. This idiot told me they booked and didn't arrive and when I arrived looking for two Australian girls who checked int he day before, gave names and even found a photo, nothing. No clue. I don't even have words for how moronic they were and how much distressed was caused! Anyway, I met the girls and we moaned about how idiotic the landlord and staff were and that we would resume which was to be a group travel in Cuba. We would struggle our way through this country together. Two guys from Germany had also checked into my room so we all met in the lounge for a beer before heading out for dinner and a drink... We were all so happy to interact with fellow travellers in this country. The boys had been travelling in Cuba for 9 days and had not met any others. This place truly is a different world.
We headed out for dinner where the already minimum menu was reduced as they had run out of ingredients/food which is a common occurrence. I used the remaining ten minutes of wifi in a public zone and advised mum that I'd found the girls and I'd leave Havana the following day and try another destination. I'd got to her in the nick of time before she confirmed payment for my emergency flight out. In any case the next chance I get to find wifi I'll most likely book a much earlier flight out than what was already booked for three weeks out. Crazy.
Today I woke still with a pit of emotion and a desire to be back in Mexico. I know that everything is exaggerated and inflamed and I am viewing everything through a veil of sadness as I don't have my best friend by my side. I just have to push through. The morning was a fiasco of Dana trying to get money from a bank. After our third one, success and we couldn't be happier for her success. Timing was on point to get out of the apartment and to the bus station. No time for wifi or post office, however thankfully and surprisingly I could buy a stamp and post from the bus station. Now the three amigos are travelling three hours to Vinales for two nights, let's hope it's a beauty!
I am repeating daily mantras from my best friend to see me through the tough times, "Jamaica no problem", "Take it easy", and "All is possible". What an incredible human being to leave such a positive mark in my life, and what a pleasure it was to see it shared with every person he met. It's my hope I can do this for others.
Enormous love, Kassie x
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