The windy city

After a long day at the Kasbah in the Sahara, we departed the following day at 7.30am to begin out journey into Marrakech. We got on the bus at 8.30am and went on our way. The weather was terrible which didn't make me feel so bad spending a whole day on the bus. After several hours into the trip, our journey came to a halt as the road ahead of us was flooded. We waited for perhaps up to an hour and then went on our way. Celebrations perhaps started a little too soon, as ahead of us, 80km of road through the Atlas Mountains was cut off due to landslides and we were stuck in the middle of the road for several hours. No food, no water, no bathroom facilities... It was a very long journey. 

We finally reached Marrakech close to midnight, some 16+ hours on a bus later. At 1 am after walking around the medina in circles, we finally reached our hostel - Equity Point. The next day we spent in the hostel being potatoes. Using the wifi, eating chocolate and relaxing. In the afternoon I had the most wonderful Haman to scrape off all the desert dirt and I felt a million dollars. In the late afternoon we went for a short walk trough the medina. We came to the big square where it was full of hustle and bustle. Loud music, woman harassing you for a henna or card reading and men wanting you to get photo's with the hypnotised snakes or monkeys on a chain. One thing that has really disturbed me on this trip is treatment if animals for entertainment. Monkeys with chains around their necks, dressed in ridiculous costumes, snakes drugged and with teeth and venom removed, camels with cut lips from rope ties in their mouths... It breaks my heart to see, and even more that it is done for the entertainment of tourists. I do not support it and will not support it. It was busy but it was very different to anywhere we had been. As we were walking home and I was thinking to myself, it is bad, but not as bad as I had expected, the people are rude and sales are forceful but manageable. Then all of a sudden a man walked past me and struck me in the face. I was in complete shock and yelled at him "what the f***" he looked me in the eyes and then walked off. I was standing in the middle of the street in absolute shock. When I came to, I was furious and disgusted. A shop keeper came over and told me that I wouldn't know, but this man is a known crazy and it was best I didnt retaliate. As time past I was trying to hold back the tears and could not contain my anger. Nothing could justify his actions and it still upsets me to think about it. Marrakech is a very different place. 

We spent the next couple of days lazing around the hostel only going out for food when needed. The hostel was gorgeous and we met some equally gorgeous people. From Marrakech we travelled for three hours by bus to essaouria 'the windy city' (for the surf) a lovely beach town. Our hostel was a but rough around the edges but all the staff would move mountains to accommodate you. There are two pet cats - jimmy and Hendrix - cute cuddly little guys. Our first night we grabbed a few beers and a couple of bottles of red wine and had a great night on the terrace. Since then we have relaxed on sun beds on the beach, made pals including the beautiful puppy snoopy, and petted a chameleon named Julia Roberts. 

Yesterday we took a local bus to a much smaller beach town called Sidi Kouki. A very nice beach where the sun sets over the ocean. In the evening I ate possibly one of the best meals I've very eaten, a chicken tagine wih fig and blue cheese..... I are the same again for lunch! Late yesterday there were 55 Moroccans who checked into out hostel. It was hectic! In the evening some men played traditional Berber music which was a great experience. The girls have headed back to Sidi for the night to enjoy a bonfire on the beach and I'm sure a wonderful time. I need some time out for me and am thoroughly enjoying some reflective time alone. Another couple of days in Essaouira will make my longest stop in one place through Africa - and why not, it's by the beach. As the days pass by my shopping has started to pick up. I've found things I like, now I just have to come to grips with the bartering battle that comes ahead and handing over the cash! I've already treated myself to a gorgeous black leather tassel bag, but why just stop at one!

Tonight I bought myself a "protection necklace" which has the hand of Fatima and an evil eye pendant to dispel evil and got one of the guys at the hostel to "bless" it for me before I put it on. Sweet!

Spread your love and kindness through every person you meet.

Kassie

Happy flower

Our love for Morocco has grown with every day. Our initial four days in Fez included walks through the Medina, a day trip to Meknes, a stroll through the park, and getting a traditional "massage" and more.

We were really looking forward to a thorough deep tissue massage, but what we got was far from expected. We entered the Haman to a room of naked woman cleaning their bodies like it was the first time in their life. A Middle ages overweight woman with breasts bouncing at her knees exfoliated our entire bodies by hand mit as we laughed aloud and tried not to look in each other's eyes. The whole cleaning scrubbing and washing took about two hours and I've never felt so clean in my life. While it was such a shock to be amongst woman who's only eyes you see through burka's during the day, by afternoon to see then scrubbing each other's naked bodies; it was in the end, a great experience.

We since found out that this is a tradition that both men and woman do seperately once a week. They do shower normally, but lash out in a naked bathing room once every few days. We'll be doing it again, but this time a little more prepared!

Our next stop was Chefchaouen, a little blue painted town in the mountains. We arrived, and checked into our 25 bed dorm room. Which, again, wasn't quite what we expected. It was in the terrace aka the roof, and there were 25 mattresses (or double folded wool blankets as beds) side-by-side with a number above them, around the walls of the terrace. Each of us three girls were on a seperate wall, not even in sight of each other. Hippies of all ages lounged around to the sounds of reggae music as they all probably laughed when they saw our faces drop. Each time I went to my bed I would have at least three people laying across it playing chess, eating cereal or rolling joints. When night fell, Nat was to shocked to sleep in her allotting squatting space so we top and tailed on a mini single bed, between a 60+ year old man and a couple. We laughed hysterically at our situation until we fell asleep. The next morning we checked in to an 8 bed room for the next two nights!

The following day we did a farm tour which was a very memorable day.  By night we watched Harry potter while playing with Simba the kitten (I was his favorite) in the foyer of the hostel, before the most incredible nights sleep in a comfortable, cool and spacious bed (with a little more privacy than before).

The next day we met a couple of great dudes at the hostel, and by the time afternoon came around,we pulled ourselves out of the hostel rooftop vortex and went for a stroll around town. We met a boy cooking in the street making what he described as 'penis' and it took us three takes to understand that he was cooking 'peanuts'. We munched them down and laughed for the rest of day.

In the evening we caught on to a hotel which sold beer, which was a real treat as alcohol in incredibly sparce and expensive in Morocco. The five of us enjoyed a few cold ones while overlooking the night lights of the town and giggling our way into the early morning.

The next day we returned to Fez for two nights to figure out our next move. It was a different hostel in the opposite part of the medina so it was very much a new place to us. As we had no luck getting a taxi from the bus station, a very kind, generous and genuine man offered to take us to the hostel. He told us of his multiple businesses, his family and tips for Morocco. He even called the hostel to have someone personally collect us from the street to avoid being taken down the garden path by seedy males. We were very fortunate.

On the last day there I shopped around the Medina aimlessly. With such a broad collection of styles, colours and designs of leather goods, pottery, carpets, jewlerry and more, it's making my shopping time more difficult then imagined. I fell in love with a turquoise necklace which went for 3,400 dhm to 600 dhm. I visited a nice jewlerry man who's collection I admired last time who told me I got completely ripped off, and proving the "polished turquoise" was plastic. He reminded me of what I knew about significant price drops = non genuine items. I rushed back down the medina, got my money back and in turn bought the stunning unique bracelet I had had loved from first sight, from the honest jewlerry man. 

We then set off on our eight hour overnight bus journey to Rissani and then  hour drive into the Sahara. We slept, ate, and lazed by the surprisingly freezing cold pool at the Kasbah until our journey into the wilderness. As the afternoon sandstorm slightly reduced, we got in our matching Sahara pyjamas, put on our turbans, jumped on our camels and trekked through the sand dunes! We travelled for an hour before reaching our destination, which was a circle of tents with carpet flooring in the middle, a small table and half a dozen drums. As we descended down the dunes we hummed the M*A*S*H opening soundtrack as we felt like we were on set and laughed hysterically. We chatted with the others before eating a delicious feast for dinner. As night fell, we all moved our mattresses from the tents to the open flooring, played drums and looked up at incredible night sky. It was so clear we could easily see the Milky Way. It reminded me of the same star lit sky in the Maldives which made my heart a little sad as I miss that place incredibly. Nearly all of us were looking above at once and all shared the trail of light as an enormous shooting star lit the sky. It was a magical night.

This morning we packed up and jumped back on our camels and trekked back to the Kasbah. Unfortunately because of the poor weather we didn't see the sunrise but that didn't diminish our trip what so ever.

A good day for lazing around (and celebration, as my stomach has stopped churning for the first time in a week!) before a night of good rest, as tomorrow we begin our 14 hour bus journey to Marrakecsh!

We eat too much bread and drink scorching hot mint tea ("Moroccan whiskey") at every meal, we pretend that we haven't heard "ahh kangaroo, Aussie Aussie Aussie Oi Oi Oi" from every person we meet, we travel with a roll of TP and a couple of 1 dhm coins where ever we go, and with water bottle in hand. We made up our own rule of shoulders or knee's covered - one or the other, not always both in an attempt to wear more than two different outfits on our whole time in Morocco. We stop and listen to prayer time echo through the streets in the day and enjoy the afternoon winds before the still evenings arrive. We take some risks in the name of adventure and act modestly in name of safety. We always find something to laugh about every day, even if it's at our own expense. 

We appreciate the simple things, safe drinking water, clean undies and a descent place to sleep. Oh, and also a descent wifi connection, it has become quite possibly the most important tool for us while travelling.

Morocco has been a wonderful accident. As I had planned to be diving in Greece at this time, I'm now riding camels through the Sahara desert! People are tricky, many are out to harass you, deceive you and rip you off. Others are the kindest, most welcoming ("welcome to Africa!") and generous people.

It's sometimes hard to distinguish the good from the bad, but we have to learn from our experiences and not the bad prevent us from letting the good in, and letting the good blind us from the bad. It's an incredible journey within and without. I'm finding myself more and more quiet, contemplating so much of that around me and booming that into the bigger picture of life. I'm tested every day, and sometimes things do get the better of me, but I'm learning to handle it better.

I've booked my flight out of Africa in two weeks time, with an end date in sight, I feel a little more comfortable in my time ahead, knowing that it will come to an end soon, so to paint what's left the boldest and brightest of colours.

Kass xx

Swing life away

I am blown away from one week to the next with how our gypsy life unfolds...

This time last week we were enjoying  life in San Sebastián, or as we have renamed it, Pleasantville. Days spent on the beach or in the park, enjoying the sun and relaxed nature of the town. 

We love his place so much, it is just so clean and safe and beautiful. Come Friday we didn't really want to leave just yet - we could have stayed there for a good couple of weeks. 

Unexpectedly we had an extended stay... The bus we booked to Barcelona double booked out seats, or did something suspicious and our seats got given to nanna's and we were told to get off the bus as there were no more seats. Last bus of the day would see us miss our international flight, our booked accommodation in morocco and we were back in a sold out town. After much distress, we found a bed for the night and spent the rest of it on the wifi searching for a place for the next two nights.

We got a room in an apartment (a great story in itself) and settled back into Pleasantville for the weekend. Lucky for us there was a festival over the weekend and we saw The Wombats play up in the hills over looking the stunning San Sebastián beach. It was a wonderful night of music laughter and priceless views. A lot of challenges knock you when you travel (both first hand and troubles from home)  and you are left lost and confused, but you just have to roll with the punches, then it's fair to say everything works out in the end. 

We then spent one night in Barcelona before flying (a new and more expensive flight) to morocco today. First impressions is that we absolutely love this place. An incredible culture shock, but so many hidden gems.

Swinging beds on the roof of our hostel drinking mint tea and listening to Bob Marley and Chet faker (and a bit of Toto - Africa!) and having a laugh as we look around and discuss our love for the place. Strolls through the medina, admiring the incredible craftsmanship of everything from rugs, leather bags, silver... Sweating in the heat under our baggy, shoulder and knee covering hippy gypsy clothes. I love it!

There's definitely going to be more challenges ahead, I see that - but even in the darkest times you have to find a glimmer of hope and believe it's all going to work out for the best. It's hard to see that when you are down, but when you rise up (which you always do) you know it's made you stronger and perhaps a little wiser (with some great tales to tell).

Kass xx

pleasantville

Tuesday morning we packed up the wicked car and began our 4.5+ road trip to Valencia. We were heading for the La Tomatina festival - Yeww! We chilled by the beach and at our camp ground until Wednesday morning at 7am when we headed on our one hour journey to Bunol.

Everyone was excited and it was a sea of white clothing, goggles and go-pros. We made our way up to station 4, where we had view of the lard-covered pole with a ham at the top. Punters attempted to climb up the pole to collect the ham, which would begin the Tomato throwing festivities. During the while large crowds of people are drinking, chanting, singing and jumping around in the ice cold water being sprayed around. Funny costumes and crowd pleasures kept everyone entertained until 11am when the water canons went off which marked the start of the tomato throwing. The crowd went wild as enormous trucks rolled through the town - pelting tomatoes at people. People jammed onto the footpath, ten  people deep when in reality it would accommodate two or three, it felt as if I would come out with one rib less. After the trucks passed the real havoc broke loose with a trail of tomatoes left behind. People would jump around on the tomatoes and kick their feet until it turned to slush. It poured through the streets above ankle deep.

Solid tomatoes and hand fulls of slush were thrown around for up to two hours, with several trucks passing through. Goggles became more tomato collectors than eye protectors, with everyone reporting some kind of eye seeping for a few days after the event. It smelt, it seeped into everything and it followed you everywhere. On your way walking back to the bus parking, locals were standing in the streets with hoses, aiding those lathered head to toe in tomatoes. When we got to the bus we had to change clothes, and endure a one hour stinky bus ride home. Swims at the beach, several scrubs and washes later, I feel like I am sill finding tomato in places!

After spending the next wonderful day exploring the city of Valencia, I drove over five and a half hours back to our crib. We were diverted off the highway by the navman and I was having to drive the most insane winding road on the edge of a cliff over the sea! It felt it went on forever, my windscreen was foggy and I had a trail of cars behind me. You could say I was pretty happy to arrive home!

Friday I headed into Barcelona where I caught up with my sister from another mister. We had a lovely dinner and went out to a club and arrived home some time after 7am. It was a great night. Saturday we were tired and called it in early. 

Sunday (last night) I met back up with Nat and we caught an eight and a half hour bus to San Sebastian. Surprisingly time went really fast as we chatted the whole way. Today we chilled at the beach all day. We have nick-named San Sebastion “Pleasantville”. It is possibly the most gorgeous European city I have visited. With manicured gardens and flowers, clean streets and beaches - it is just beautiful.

We are holding out until tomorrow night when a band from home are playing - Tropical Zombie. One of the things i love most - live music.

Until then we will continue to laugh about wearing burkas in Morocco, where we will be arriving to on Friday; and we will keep on sun baking... and baking. 

Happy first day of Autumn San Sebastian, it has been a pleasure sharing it with you!

Good vibes, Kassie xx