Monday, 29 September 2014

The windy city

After a long day at the Kasbah in the Sahara, we departed the following day at 7.30am to begin out journey into Marrakech. We got on the bus at 8.30am and went on our way. The weather was terrible which didn't make me feel so bad spending a whole day on the bus. After several hours into the trip, our journey came to a halt as the road ahead of us was flooded. We waited for perhaps up to an hour and then went on our way. Celebrations perhaps started a little too soon, as ahead of us, 80km of road through the Atlas Mountains was cut off due to landslides and we were stuck in the middle of the road for several hours. No food, no water, no bathroom facilities... It was a very long journey. 

We finally reached Marrakech close to midnight, some 16+ hours on a bus later. At 1 am after walking around the medina in circles, we finally reached our hostel - Equity Point. The next day we spent in the hostel being potatoes. Using the wifi, eating chocolate and relaxing. In the afternoon I had the most wonderful Haman to scrape off all the desert dirt and I felt a million dollars. In the late afternoon we went for a short walk trough the medina. We came to the big square where it was full of hustle and bustle. Loud music, woman harassing you for a henna or card reading and men wanting you to get photo's with the hypnotised snakes or monkeys on a chain. One thing that has really disturbed me on this trip is treatment if animals for entertainment. Monkeys with chains around their necks, dressed in ridiculous costumes, snakes drugged and with teeth and venom removed, camels with cut lips from rope ties in their mouths... It breaks my heart to see, and even more that it is done for the entertainment of tourists. I do not support it and will not support it. It was busy but it was very different to anywhere we had been. As we were walking home and I was thinking to myself, it is bad, but not as bad as I had expected, the people are rude and sales are forceful but manageable. Then all of a sudden a man walked past me and struck me in the face. I was in complete shock and yelled at him "what the f***" he looked me in the eyes and then walked off. I was standing in the middle of the street in absolute shock. When I came to, I was furious and disgusted. A shop keeper came over and told me that I wouldn't know, but this man is a known crazy and it was best I didnt retaliate. As time past I was trying to hold back the tears and could not contain my anger. Nothing could justify his actions and it still upsets me to think about it. Marrakech is a very different place. 

We spent the next couple of days lazing around the hostel only going out for food when needed. The hostel was gorgeous and we met some equally gorgeous people. From Marrakech we travelled for three hours by bus to essaouria 'the windy city' (for the surf) a lovely beach town. Our hostel was a but rough around the edges but all the staff would move mountains to accommodate you. There are two pet cats - jimmy and Hendrix - cute cuddly little guys. Our first night we grabbed a few beers and a couple of bottles of red wine and had a great night on the terrace. Since then we have relaxed on sun beds on the beach, made pals including the beautiful puppy snoopy, and petted a chameleon named Julia Roberts. 

Yesterday we took a local bus to a much smaller beach town called Sidi Kouki. A very nice beach where the sun sets over the ocean. In the evening I ate possibly one of the best meals I've very eaten, a chicken tagine wih fig and blue cheese..... I are the same again for lunch! Late yesterday there were 55 Moroccans who checked into out hostel. It was hectic! In the evening some men played traditional Berber music which was a great experience. The girls have headed back to Sidi for the night to enjoy a bonfire on the beach and I'm sure a wonderful time. I need some time out for me and am thoroughly enjoying some reflective time alone. Another couple of days in Essaouira will make my longest stop in one place through Africa - and why not, it's by the beach. As the days pass by my shopping has started to pick up. I've found things I like, now I just have to come to grips with the bartering battle that comes ahead and handing over the cash! I've already treated myself to a gorgeous black leather tassel bag, but why just stop at one!

Tonight I bought myself a "protection necklace" which has the hand of Fatima and an evil eye pendant to dispel evil and got one of the guys at the hostel to "bless" it for me before I put it on. Sweet!

Spread your love and kindness through every person you meet.

Kassie

Tuesday, 16 September 2014

Happy flower

Our love for Morocco has grown with every day. Our initial four days in Fez included walks through the Medina, a day trip to Meknes, a stroll through the park, and getting a traditional "massage" and more.

We were really looking forward to a thorough deep tissue massage, but what we got was far from expected. We entered the Haman to a room of naked woman cleaning their bodies like it was the first time in their life. A Middle ages overweight woman with breasts bouncing at her knees exfoliated our entire bodies by hand mit as we laughed aloud and tried not to look in each other's eyes. The whole cleaning scrubbing and washing took about two hours and I've never felt so clean in my life. While it was such a shock to be amongst woman who's only eyes you see through burka's during the day, by afternoon to see then scrubbing each other's naked bodies; it was in the end, a great experience.

We since found out that this is a tradition that both men and woman do seperately once a week. They do shower normally, but lash out in a naked bathing room once every few days. We'll be doing it again, but this time a little more prepared!

Our next stop was Chefchaouen, a little blue painted town in the mountains. We arrived, and checked into our 25 bed dorm room. Which, again, wasn't quite what we expected. It was in the terrace aka the roof, and there were 25 mattresses (or double folded wool blankets as beds) side-by-side with a number above them, around the walls of the terrace. Each of us three girls were on a seperate wall, not even in sight of each other. Hippies of all ages lounged around to the sounds of reggae music as they all probably laughed when they saw our faces drop. Each time I went to my bed I would have at least three people laying across it playing chess, eating cereal or rolling joints. When night fell, Nat was to shocked to sleep in her allotting squatting space so we top and tailed on a mini single bed, between a 60+ year old man and a couple. We laughed hysterically at our situation until we fell asleep. The next morning we checked in to an 8 bed room for the next two nights!

The following day we did a farm tour which was a very memorable day.  By night we watched Harry potter while playing with Simba the kitten (I was his favorite) in the foyer of the hostel, before the most incredible nights sleep in a comfortable, cool and spacious bed (with a little more privacy than before).

The next day we met a couple of great dudes at the hostel, and by the time afternoon came around,we pulled ourselves out of the hostel rooftop vortex and went for a stroll around town. We met a boy cooking in the street making what he described as 'penis' and it took us three takes to understand that he was cooking 'peanuts'. We munched them down and laughed for the rest of day.

In the evening we caught on to a hotel which sold beer, which was a real treat as alcohol in incredibly sparce and expensive in Morocco. The five of us enjoyed a few cold ones while overlooking the night lights of the town and giggling our way into the early morning.

The next day we returned to Fez for two nights to figure out our next move. It was a different hostel in the opposite part of the medina so it was very much a new place to us. As we had no luck getting a taxi from the bus station, a very kind, generous and genuine man offered to take us to the hostel. He told us of his multiple businesses, his family and tips for Morocco. He even called the hostel to have someone personally collect us from the street to avoid being taken down the garden path by seedy males. We were very fortunate.

On the last day there I shopped around the Medina aimlessly. With such a broad collection of styles, colours and designs of leather goods, pottery, carpets, jewlerry and more, it's making my shopping time more difficult then imagined. I fell in love with a turquoise necklace which went for 3,400 dhm to 600 dhm. I visited a nice jewlerry man who's collection I admired last time who told me I got completely ripped off, and proving the "polished turquoise" was plastic. He reminded me of what I knew about significant price drops = non genuine items. I rushed back down the medina, got my money back and in turn bought the stunning unique bracelet I had had loved from first sight, from the honest jewlerry man. 

We then set off on our eight hour overnight bus journey to Rissani and then  hour drive into the Sahara. We slept, ate, and lazed by the surprisingly freezing cold pool at the Kasbah until our journey into the wilderness. As the afternoon sandstorm slightly reduced, we got in our matching Sahara pyjamas, put on our turbans, jumped on our camels and trekked through the sand dunes! We travelled for an hour before reaching our destination, which was a circle of tents with carpet flooring in the middle, a small table and half a dozen drums. As we descended down the dunes we hummed the M*A*S*H opening soundtrack as we felt like we were on set and laughed hysterically. We chatted with the others before eating a delicious feast for dinner. As night fell, we all moved our mattresses from the tents to the open flooring, played drums and looked up at incredible night sky. It was so clear we could easily see the Milky Way. It reminded me of the same star lit sky in the Maldives which made my heart a little sad as I miss that place incredibly. Nearly all of us were looking above at once and all shared the trail of light as an enormous shooting star lit the sky. It was a magical night.

This morning we packed up and jumped back on our camels and trekked back to the Kasbah. Unfortunately because of the poor weather we didn't see the sunrise but that didn't diminish our trip what so ever.

A good day for lazing around (and celebration, as my stomach has stopped churning for the first time in a week!) before a night of good rest, as tomorrow we begin our 14 hour bus journey to Marrakecsh!

We eat too much bread and drink scorching hot mint tea ("Moroccan whiskey") at every meal, we pretend that we haven't heard "ahh kangaroo, Aussie Aussie Aussie Oi Oi Oi" from every person we meet, we travel with a roll of TP and a couple of 1 dhm coins where ever we go, and with water bottle in hand. We made up our own rule of shoulders or knee's covered - one or the other, not always both in an attempt to wear more than two different outfits on our whole time in Morocco. We stop and listen to prayer time echo through the streets in the day and enjoy the afternoon winds before the still evenings arrive. We take some risks in the name of adventure and act modestly in name of safety. We always find something to laugh about every day, even if it's at our own expense. 

We appreciate the simple things, safe drinking water, clean undies and a descent place to sleep. Oh, and also a descent wifi connection, it has become quite possibly the most important tool for us while travelling.

Morocco has been a wonderful accident. As I had planned to be diving in Greece at this time, I'm now riding camels through the Sahara desert! People are tricky, many are out to harass you, deceive you and rip you off. Others are the kindest, most welcoming ("welcome to Africa!") and generous people.

It's sometimes hard to distinguish the good from the bad, but we have to learn from our experiences and not the bad prevent us from letting the good in, and letting the good blind us from the bad. It's an incredible journey within and without. I'm finding myself more and more quiet, contemplating so much of that around me and booming that into the bigger picture of life. I'm tested every day, and sometimes things do get the better of me, but I'm learning to handle it better.

I've booked my flight out of Africa in two weeks time, with an end date in sight, I feel a little more comfortable in my time ahead, knowing that it will come to an end soon, so to paint what's left the boldest and brightest of colours.

Kass xx

Tuesday, 9 September 2014

Swing life away

I am blown away from one week to the next with how our gypsy life unfolds...

This time last week we were enjoying  life in San Sebastián, or as we have renamed it, Pleasantville. Days spent on the beach or in the park, enjoying the sun and relaxed nature of the town. 

We love his place so much, it is just so clean and safe and beautiful. Come Friday we didn't really want to leave just yet - we could have stayed there for a good couple of weeks. 

Unexpectedly we had an extended stay... The bus we booked to Barcelona double booked out seats, or did something suspicious and our seats got given to nanna's and we were told to get off the bus as there were no more seats. Last bus of the day would see us miss our international flight, our booked accommodation in morocco and we were back in a sold out town. After much distress, we found a bed for the night and spent the rest of it on the wifi searching for a place for the next two nights.

We got a room in an apartment (a great story in itself) and settled back into Pleasantville for the weekend. Lucky for us there was a festival over the weekend and we saw The Wombats play up in the hills over looking the stunning San Sebastián beach. It was a wonderful night of music laughter and priceless views. A lot of challenges knock you when you travel (both first hand and troubles from home)  and you are left lost and confused, but you just have to roll with the punches, then it's fair to say everything works out in the end. 

We then spent one night in Barcelona before flying (a new and more expensive flight) to morocco today. First impressions is that we absolutely love this place. An incredible culture shock, but so many hidden gems.

Swinging beds on the roof of our hostel drinking mint tea and listening to Bob Marley and Chet faker (and a bit of Toto - Africa!) and having a laugh as we look around and discuss our love for the place. Strolls through the medina, admiring the incredible craftsmanship of everything from rugs, leather bags, silver... Sweating in the heat under our baggy, shoulder and knee covering hippy gypsy clothes. I love it!

There's definitely going to be more challenges ahead, I see that - but even in the darkest times you have to find a glimmer of hope and believe it's all going to work out for the best. It's hard to see that when you are down, but when you rise up (which you always do) you know it's made you stronger and perhaps a little wiser (with some great tales to tell).

Kass xx

Tuesday, 2 September 2014

pleasantville


Tuesday morning we packed up the wicked car and began our 4.5+ road trip to Valencia. We were heading for the La Tomatina festival - Yeww! We chilled by the beach and at our camp ground until Wednesday morning at 7am when we headed on our one hour journey to Bunol.

Everyone was excited and it was a sea of white clothing, goggles and go-pros. We made our way up to station 4, where we had view of the lard-covered pole with a ham at the top. Punters attempted to climb up the pole to collect the ham, which would begin the Tomato throwing festivities. During the while large crowds of people are drinking, chanting, singing and jumping around in the ice cold water being sprayed around. Funny costumes and crowd pleasures kept everyone entertained until 11am when the water canons went off which marked the start of the tomato throwing. The crowd went wild as enormous trucks rolled through the town - pelting tomatoes at people. People jammed onto the footpath, ten  people deep when in reality it would accommodate two or three, it felt as if I would come out with one rib less. After the trucks passed the real havoc broke loose with a trail of tomatoes left behind. People would jump around on the tomatoes and kick their feet until it turned to slush. It poured through the streets above ankle deep.

Solid tomatoes and hand fulls of slush were thrown around for up to two hours, with several trucks passing through. Goggles became more tomato collectors than eye protectors, with everyone reporting some kind of eye seeping for a few days after the event. It smelt, it seeped into everything and it followed you everywhere. On your way walking back to the bus parking, locals were standing in the streets with hoses, aiding those lathered head to toe in tomatoes. When we got to the bus we had to change clothes, and endure a one hour stinky bus ride home. Swims at the beach, several scrubs and washes later, I feel like I am sill finding tomato in places!

After spending the next wonderful day exploring the city of Valencia, I drove over five and a half hours back to our crib. We were diverted off the highway by the navman and I was having to drive the most insane winding road on the edge of a cliff over the sea! It felt it went on forever, my windscreen was foggy and I had a trail of cars behind me. You could say I was pretty happy to arrive home!

Friday I headed into Barcelona where I caught up with my sister from another mister. We had a lovely dinner and went out to a club and arrived home some time after 7am. It was a great night. Saturday we were tired and called it in early. 

Sunday (last night) I met back up with Nat and we caught an eight and a half hour bus to San Sebastian. Surprisingly time went really fast as we chatted the whole way. Today we chilled at the beach all day. We have nick-named San Sebastion “Pleasantville”. It is possibly the most gorgeous European city I have visited. With manicured gardens and flowers, clean streets and beaches - it is just beautiful.

We are holding out until tomorrow night when a band from home are playing - Tropical Zombie. One of the things i love most - live music.

Until then we will continue to laugh about wearing burkas in Morocco, where we will be arriving to on Friday; and we will keep on sun baking... and baking. 

Happy first day of Autumn San Sebastian, it has been a pleasure sharing it with you!

Good vibes, Kassie xx

Monday, 25 August 2014

hola barcelona


My last day in Italy was a long one... I hadn’t slept well the night before and I wouldn’t be leaving the house for the bus until half midnight. I ate my first and last four cheese pizza. I was dropped at the bus terminal and left for Rome at 1.30am. It was a very long and uncomfortable bus ride, arriving in Rome at 5am. Once in the airport I killed some time on a facetime call with Mum which was great. I checked in my bags at 7.30a and departed at 10am.

Once I arrived in Barcelona at midday, I high-tailed through the airport to collect my bags and met Nat who was waiting for me. I immediately felt better as I slowly recalled how to speak fluent english and have my first proper face to face conversation in weeks. I met her mate Jy and we drove back to our pad some 45 mins out of the city.

We are living in an industrial type area in a ‘studio’ which caters to almost all of our needs. We have to walk some 100m to the work shed where we have access to a bathroom and wifi. It’s cosy and and comfortable. Soon as I dropped my bags we hit the sangria before going to the supermarket where we lost each other in the isles countless times. We enjoyed antipasto for lunch and in the afternoon we went for a roadtrip to visit some new friends. Upon arrival we had a beautiful BBQ dinner prepared by the parents and enjoyed getting to know our new friends. After dinner we were hired as gardeners for a few hours around their incredible Spanish home. Coming out with fourty euro was brilliant - equivalent to two full days working in Greece! We stayed the night there and enjoyed lazing around the following morning as it was raining outside. On our way out we stopped in the nearby town and had a wonderful 3 course lunch - starter, main, dessert with beer and coffee. I must say I have always cracked on about Italy’s food... but Spain - I think you are giving them a run for their money!

Friday, Saturday and Sunday have all been lazy days around the pad. No rush to get anywhere or do anything so we stumble around sleepy eyed until the afternoon where we might head to the local shopping centre and grab a couple of things or catch the train into Barcelona. We make lavish lunches - of seafood and antipasto and enjoy wine with every meal. This is living. Saturday afternoon we did some walking around Barcelona before stopping at a roof top bar and sharing a bottle of wine. A little further we stumbled across a nice square of restaurants off La Rumbla where we had lobster paella, a couple of bottles of wine and the most wonderful chocolate fondue cake. I spent more on dinner than I can ever imagine spending on myself before, but sometimes you just have to treat yourself! I was so stuffed after dinner, I fell asleep on the bus coming home.

It’s Monday today and unfortunately the cloud cover continues, disrupting our desire to relax at the beach. Later in the day the three of us will take a Wicked Van and road trip towards Valencia where we will spend the next few days at La Tomatina festival - aka the biggest tomato fight in the world! We will most likely come back on Friday where we will spend the weekend here and embark on our next road trip to San Sebastian which is approximately 6 hours north west. We will enjoy a few days there next week before coming back to Barcelona on the weekend where we look to be heading to our next destination - Morocco!

We heard it would be cold in Germany for Octoberfest so we just decided to go to Morocco instead! Ride a camel through the Sahara desert - why not!

It’s wonderful to not have an itinerary to be bound by, to make spontaneous decisions about where we are going to travel to, and what we are going to do next. Lucky I booked my flight home otherwise it would be very easy to stay on here. 
Not knowing what is around the corner is exciting and keeps you on the edge of your seat. 

I have no doubt that it is going to be challenging along the way, but for what I am coming to learn and experience - priceless.

Going places, Kassie xx

Sunday, 17 August 2014

blessing in disguise


Italy has been just what my soul needed. After feeling lonely, lost and confused after the Greece fiasco, some TLC was exactly what I needed. For one and a half weeks it is difficult to distinguish between the days as each is very much the same. 10 hours at the beach, sun baking, reading, swimming, walking and playing with the kids. I don’t have to move far to shop with the dozens of immigrants trolling up and down the beach flogging off clothing, gadgets, bikinis and more. I bought a brilliant pair of fluro green bikini’s which didn’t last more than one wear before i accidentally put them in the wrong washing pile and now they are teal and much of my clothing is now purple. Rookie error. 

Last sunday I had the pleasure of catching up with one of my friends I had made last Italy visit. It was brilliant, such a blast from the past. I have since caught up with many others who i consider family and hope to catch up with a couple more friends in the next few days before I leave, it would be a shame not to.

I have enjoyed many of my favorite italian dishes and treats with only a few more to tick off the list. I’ve eaten far too much bread and not enough pizza and pasta. Coffee is even better than I remembered and I can’t get enough cola calipo’s on hot days at the beach.

Yesterday was a celebration day in Italy - “Ferragosto”. During the day people threw buckets of water on each other at the beach and in the evening we went to a friend’s place for a garden dinner party and ate and drank like kings. At around midnight there was the most incredible display of fireworks on the beach and we have the perfect view from their balcony.

I feel I have definitely had more than sufficient time here to live and breath with the most wonderful family. I will feel quite fulfilled at the end of my visit and look forward to coming back to visit again; whether it be in 2 years or 10.

Only 5 more sleeps until the real adventure begins. I have booked a flight to Barcelona where I will meet a friend and begin a Wicked van road trip around europe for a couple weeks... No plan on when or where we are going, but taking the open road to happiness and freedom. I have 8 weeks to fill in before returning to Australia and I am going to make the very most of it! 

Taking a shit-ass job in Greece may have just turned out to be a blessing in disguise - putting me on a whole new path of adventure.

I am on the edge of my seat in anticipation for the flight out of here and into the unknown.

Flying free, Kass xx 

Friday, 8 August 2014

viva Italia!


It is so wonderful to be happy again!

Following my arrival in Athens, I had two days to chill out at Al and Dim’s apartment. I had a pretty rough Ios cough so was feeling very under the weather, and I was still coming down from the recent events. I had a few tears over skype and lounged around like a potato only getting out of the house once for a few minutes to buy some food (and beer). Come friday I was felling much better. I had repacked my suitcases, one for Italy, one to stay in Athens and a small pack to take to Kalamata.

Friday evening Dim and I travelled 3 hours to Kalamata where we were also joined by two of his friends. We ate dinner on the way and after arriving past 1am, we were all very tired and went straight to bed.

Saturday morning we woke late and headed into the port town of Pyros. We put the boat in the water and travelled 10-15 minutes to the beach where we played bat ball, laid in the sun and swam for the afternoon. Later in the day around 6.30pm we took the boat out and went wake boarding which was a tonne of fun. The excitement and thrill of getting up cleared my mind of any worries or troubles and I felt free again.

In the evening we ate at midnight, where I brought in my birthday eating Kalamata olives in Kalamata! It was just as exciting as the time I bought a Swiss army knife in Switzerland! We then headed to a nice outdoor cocktail bar where I was suprised with a frozen yoghurt cake amongst half a dozen of Dim’s friends which he had called in! So sweet.

Sunday was my 27th birthday. Whilst not conventional - No Australia - No family - No friends - No gifts, it was a lovely day. We drove to this incredible beach club called KOA where it was full of sun decks and bean bags viewing down upon the beach. Music playing all day, and I only got out of the bean bag once for a swim! It was very, very chilled. In the evening we ate an early dinner (for Europe) by the beach at a Greek restaurant and I ate so much I didn't think I could move. Luckily enough I was able to get moving as we then drove to some waterfalls where we trekked through rocky paths to reach the falls. I jumped in the beautiful fresh water around sunset - 8.30pm and frolicked like a mermaid. We crossed many crabs on our walk back to the car just before it fell dark.

Beach club chills, Delicious Greek cuisine, and swimming in a waterfall - A lovely birthday, I am so thankful.

On Monday we returned to Athens where I flew out to Rome in the evening. Thankfully my flight was delayed which shaved off some time from the 9 hour wait I would have in Rome for my bus to Giulianova. Athens airport was impressive - for free phone chargers and wifi - which you learn while traveling, is priceless. In Rome, our luggage was lost - but then found. Again, a little bit more time taken off my wait. I made it up to the departure area around 2am where there were bodies all over the airport floor, sleeping amongst their luggage. Perfect. I am so glad I packed a beach towel which made my rest on the tiled floor much more comfortable then some. At 8am I grabbed a muffin on my way to the bus and left for my 3 hour journey at 9am. I am so glad I decided to bring my laptop which was able to provide me with entertainment for the trip and take my mind of my nanna bladder!

When I arrived at the bus station, Judy was waiting for me. I couldn’t help but cry tears of joy as I was so overwhelmed to see her. In the car was baby Michele and I couldn't believe my eyes. What a stunning baby boy. We drove to Roseto where I had my reunion with Sonia. I ran down the beach calling “Soniaaa” and she ran from the water crying “Kaaassieee”. I grabbed her in my arms and covered here in kisses - it was like something from a movie. I couldn't take the enormous smile off my face. I was so overwhelmed with joy to be back in Italy with the people I love so much. It was like a dream. I had to keep shaking my head to see if I would wake.

In the two days I have enjoyed since arriving, it has been very relaxing as I settle back in. We wake and walk across the road to the beach where we spend the entire day. In the afternoon, around 7pm we move to the lido where we enjoy apperitivo - an alcoholic beverage and a complimentary plate of food - ie, bread cheese and salami! My favorite time of the day! Then to the apartment for dinner which is just heaven in itself. I would marry Italy if I could.

I have arrived at the most perfect time, for this coming week - everyone takes as a holiday and comes to the beach and it’s a big party. Many wonderful friends I wouldn't not have likely been able to see, let alone spend so much time with, had I arrived at another time. There is that “mean to be..”

My heart is filled with so much love and joy and I am so grateful to have such wonderful people in my life.

I came across a lovely quote which I had on my computer last night which really resonated with me... 

“Wouldn’t it be powerful if you fell in love with yourself so deeply that you would do just about anything if you knew it would make you happy” - Alan Cohen.

To learning to love ourselves and making ourselves happy.

Kassie xx